When the government declares three days of mourning they mean it.
Everything is closed. Even Starbucks, McDonald's and Virgin Records.
Smith's grocery store stayed open and so did Faisal Snack stand on Bliss Street but literally every other business has shut their doors. (Faisal's is across the street from the police station so the police probably kept it open so they could eat.)
Traffic is light. Few people are walking on the corniche despite the warm temperatures, sunshine and calm seas. Even the corn and coffee vendors have secluded themselves somewhere. The local television stations have suspended programming and are running news programs related to the former prime minister. Posters showing him in a thoughtful pose, gazing into the horizon, plaster stucco walls, car hoods, and storefront windows. The public sorrow is palpable.
I watched the funeral on television. Hundreds of thousands of people crammed Martyrs Square. Although there was pushing and shoving and screaming and wailing the gathering was incredibly peaceful. Frankly, I've seen visits to the bank turn uglier. People from all of the religious and political factions were present. Church bells rang continuously for hours as Koran verses were broadcast from minerets. Kariri's death was a blow to all Lebanese alike and there is a real sense of unity among the citizens.
I stayed inside for the first two days after the explosion. Not out of any sense of danger, but because there was nowhere to go and nothing to do. We played scrabble and watched movies. We slept. We made soup out of the bits and pieces in the freezer, fridge and cupboards. Today, we ventured out to the corniche and soaked up the sun. We found a small cafe that was open, drank coffee and completed a crossword puzzle.
Everything should be open tomorrow as the city returns to normal. In true Lebanese fashion, things will look normal. Taxis will honk, sidewalks will bustle, cell phones will ring and tension will subside to just below the surface. I'm not a political analyst and although I play the dumb guy a lot I have to admit I really don't fully understand the relationships between the seventeen religious and political parties in this country. But based on my experience of living here and interacting with the people, I do not fear a civil war. Kariri's assassination has shown that the Lebanese can really look beyond sectarian issues and bond in their distrust of the perceived pro-Syrian government. No, a civil war will not be repeated, but a revolutionary war is not out of the question.
I will continue to be careful to avoid the wrong places at the wrong times.
Keep those emails coming. For anyone who's interested, check out www.stu.cds.com for all of my stories and updates.