Stu's visit to Egypt (year 2)
03/20/2003
At six o'clock this morning, two hours after the first missiles were fired, I got a phone call from my department head. School was canceled today. I followed the appropriate branch of the phone tree and made a phone call of my own. Seven hours after the first missiles were fired, I turned the TV off and walked to the Green Mill for some breakfast. I needed time to think about things and sort out my feelings. I needed time away from CNN. Mostly though, I wanted to get out of my apartment and take advantage of the day off. It felt like a snowday and I didn't want to waste it sitting in front of the TV. Ashraf greeted me warmly and sat down at my table with a cup of coffee.Ashraf is the owner of The Green Mill. He is a forty-something Egyptian restaurateur and fluent in English. He lived in Minneapolis and owned a restaurant there for twenty years. He returned to Cairo a few years ago and opened an American style diner in Maadi, my very westernized neighborhood. I have become a regular there and know the staff by name. I organized two Superbowl parties there, used his catering service for two of my own parties at home, and order coffee for my bus every week. I eat at least three meals a week here and sometimes come in just to read or write or be seen.
He asked me what I thought about the war in Iraq. One of the things I have learned is to not discuss politics with people that you don't know well. I was cautious with my response. I fumbled a bit with my answer but voiced that I didn't see a clear and present danger and therefore felt that military action is unjust. He said immediately, "I disagree with you. And I will tell you why." He explained that he felt Saddam Hussein is an evil man who is a danger to his own people as well as the world. He supports his removal from power. What he disagrees with, though, is the methods being used to remove him. "Why cannot the US send in a team for assassination. The Israelis are very good at that you know. Why send in bombs to kill innocent people?"
He continued with his theory that the war is about many things. To free the Iraqi people, to replace the government, to avenge Bush, Sr., and to lay claim to oil reserves are all motivations he lists, but he is not convinced that president Bush is being honest about the priority of his motives. He feels that America is after the oil and he makes a compelling argument. He agrees that diplomacy has failed and that Hussein needs to be taken out, but he thinks it is being done "in a wrong way."
He told me of an American friend he has that wears a scarf around his head when he drives in his car. His attempt to be inconspicuous makes Ashraf smile. I asked Ashraf what he thought about American's safety here. He replied, "I think there are lunatics anywhere you go. When I live in the States I could not believe the stories on the news of the murders and child molesters. Ah, such terrible people." I thought about the extremely low crime rate in Egypt and asked him if he thought I should take precautions.
He said that I shouldn't wear my "Born in the USA" shirt or wave a big flag, of course, but that Egyptians just want to live their lives. They are about putting food on the table and working and family. They do not look for conflict. "You are safe here. I think people here will not bother you." He told me I should not worry. "But you never know what will happen if many people die. Maybe things change. But I do not think so."
I told him that I am working in Beirut next year and asked if he knew anything about the people there. Would they be as docile as Egyptians? Would they be accepting of Americans? What kind of reception could I expect? He replied with a twinkle in his eye and said, "Ahhh, the Lebanese women, they are very beautiful, you know." Apparently, the male chromosome transcends political opinions.
I feel safe and have not perceived any threat, but I remain vigilant. I am careful about my conduct and observant of my surroundings. I will continue to monitor the situation and update you of any changes. I am also curious about life in the US. I watch CNN, but frankly, I'd rather hear from friends and family. What are you going through there? How are you feeling? What are you hearing? Keep me posted.